Before suburban malls and online shopping redefined retail, there was a golden age of American department stores. These grand emporiums were more than shopping hubs; they offered tea rooms, childcare, beauty services, and even exotic animals like pet monkeys and baby pumas.
Despite being owned by men, women were the strategists and visionaries behind their success. Hortense Odlum at Bonwit Teller, Dorothy Shaver at Lord and Taylor, and Geraldine Stutz at Henri Bendel are key figures explored in Julie Satow’s new book, "When Women Ran Fifth Avenue: Glamour and Power at the Dawn of American Fashion".
Satow’s book highlights how these stores were social and cultural centers where women gathered, gossiped, and aspired to more luxurious lives. Inspired by European counterparts like Harrods in London and Le Bon Marché in Paris, Odlum, Shaver, and Stutz transformed their stores into fashion destinations from the Depression era through the 1960s. Satow examines how these women’s leadership in department stores reflected changing societal values and the importance of human touch in the shopping experience.
Department stores were among the few places where women could congregate publicly, creating a fantasy world and a sense of community. For many women, employment in these stores offered a first taste of independence and career aspirations in retail, fashion, and hospitality. Odlum, Shaver, and Stutz were pioneers in a time when business leadership opportunities for women were scarce.
Dorothy Shaver, for instance, was named TIME magazine’s “No. 1 career woman” in 1947 while overseeing a $40 million business. By her death in 1959, annual sales had reached $100 million. She co-founded the Fashion Group International and was instrumental in popularizing the "American Look", transforming the national fashion industry.
Hortense Odlum aimed to make department stores welcoming and accessible for women of all means, driven by her own budget-conscious experiences. Geraldine Stutz, recruited by Henri Bendel in 1964, introduced the boutique experience still prevalent today and doubled sales within three years.
“These women created a special atmosphere in their stores, making shopping an immersive experience,” Satow explained. “There’s a nostalgia for that golden era. Today, with platforms like Etsy and TikTok, opportunities for women in retail have evolved, but the critical role department stores once played is less significant.”
The legacy of these pioneering women endures, reflecting a time when department stores were cultural landmarks and women’s leadership in business began to take shape.
