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In an effort to improve safety and reduce overcrowding on Mount Everest, Nepal will only issue climbing permits to those with experience scaling at least one of the Himalayan nation's 7,000-meter peaks, according to a draft of a new law. The move comes after criticism of Nepal for allowing too many climbers, including inexperienced ones, to attempt the 8,849-meter peak.
Nepal relies heavily on climbing, trekking and tourism for foreign exchange,
Overcrowding often results in long queues of climbers in the “Death Zone,” an area below the summit with insufficient natural oxygen for survival.
Overcrowding has been blamed for the high number of deaths on the mountain. At least 12 climbers died, and another five went missing on Everest’s slopes in 2023 when Nepal issued 478 permits. Eight climbers died last year.
Furtenbach, currently leading an expedition on Everest, said mountain guides from other countries must also be allowed to work on Everest, as there are not enough qualified Nepali mountain guides.
Under the proposed law, an Everest permit would be issued only after a climber provides evidence of having climbed at least one 7,000-meter mountain in Nepal. The sardar, or the head of local staff, and the mountain guide accompanying climbers must also be Nepali citizens.
The draft law has been registered at the National Assembly, the upper house of parliament, where the ruling alliance holds a majority required to pass the bill.
There are over 400 mountain peaks in Nepal which are open to expeditions — of them, 74 are higher than 7,000 meters, according to tourism department data. However, not many of those peaks are popular among climbers, hiking officials said.
“Only a few of the 7,000-meter mountains attract climbers,” said Tashi Lhakpa Sherpa of the 14 Peaks Expedition, a major expedition organizing company in Nepal.
Tashi has climbed Everest eight times. International expedition operators have urged Nepal to allow any 7,000-meter peak, not just those in the Himalayan nation, for the Everest permit.
